I am a big fan of lighting with a scrim. While they can be used for many types of photography, for me, they tend to shine when used to create a very organic and natural feeling of light. Mastering the use of a scrim in photography to create uniquely beautiful portrait, fashion, and still-life images begins with a little understanding of how they work.
Whether working with natural or constant light, or flash, modifying your light source with a scrim follows the same process. It is placed between the light source and our subject, and it is diffused when the light hits the scrim. This creates a large swath of soft/diffused light.
A scrim is a great first modifier for photographers looking to shape the sunlight. Because they can be used with the same techniques in your studio or artificially lit scenes.
What is a Scrim?
My first introduction to the idea of a scrim in photography was while working as a photo assistant. One of the photographers I worked for used “Scrim Jim.” This collapsible frame allowed the user to attach various types of diffusion material and create areas of soft light when working in the bright, harsh sun.
For many photographers, the term scrim describes a large diffusion panel that softens the sun or studio lights. Of course, the term can also refer to small metal filters resembling window screens in filmmaking. These filters fit in front of various lights to reduce the brightness without changing the quality of the light. We will use “scrim” to mean diffusion panel in this article.
I say large because while technically, it could be almost any size, most start at about 4 feet square and go as large as 20 or more feet square.
Why Should You Use a Scrim?
Let’s look at the scrim compared to a few other common modifiers to understand better why we might want to use one in our photography.
Scrim vs. Softbox
Softboxes of all shapes and sizes are a standard modifier for portrait, still life, fashion, and most other types of photography. These modifiers provide a soft and diffused light; in some ways, this sounds very much like a scrim.
While softboxes have advantages in some situations, a scrim is better for others. A softbox, because of its construction, is typically limited in size. While huge softboxes like the Chimera F2X 5×10′ Lightbank give us 50 Square feet of super soft light, they are not common. Typically, 54×72 is the largest softbox that is practical for most photographers to own. This gives us roughly 27 Square feet of surface area. For instance, the Chimera Super Pro Plus Shallow Large. On the other hand, when using one, 8×8 feet are not uncommon, like the Westcott 8×8’ Scrim Jim Cine Kit.
Scrim vs. Umbrellas
Umbrellas, especially the shoot-through kind, share much in common with the scrim. There are a few key differences, though, that elevate the scrim above this classic light shaper. Because it is not attached to the light source, a photographer can place their light at various distances and modify the light source before it hits the fabric panel.
This allows for many creative options and the ability to shape the light to some degree. By changing the angle at which the source hits the scrim, you change how much of it the source fills. Some photographers (myself included) will even shoot some light past the edge of the scrim. This is then bounced into the scene, creating two light directions with a single source.
How to Set Up a Scrim for Photography
Stands and Support
Depending on your subject, location, and size of the scrim, there are several ways to set up and use one in your photography. Firstly, you will need some type of support. The most common way to hold a scrim is with a sturdy stand. Ideally, 2 C-Stands like these Matthews 40″ C+ Stand with Turtle Base, Grip Head, and Arm or “Overhead” Stands, such as the Kupo High Overhead Roller Stand. Be sure to use sandbags to keep your set safe.
For smaller frames like the Chimera Frame 48×48” in the studio, I find a single C-Stand will do the job if space is limited. Remember, this scrim will almost always be suspended above the set, so safety cannot be emphasized enough.
Position Your Scrim and Light
For a group shot or medium-sized set, I go with a 6-8’ scrim and two stands to hold it in position. Use the grip heads on the C-Stand arms (or overhead) to manipulate it. You want to give it about a 45-degree angle. Aim your light source at the center of the scrim; turn on the modeling light when using flash. Now, back your light away until the edges of the beam of light fill the scrim. Ensure they do not pass around the frame and fabric. Working this way, you will create the most even and diffused light possible for your photography.
Taking it to the Next Level
As noted, we have some options here that can help enhance our images and create the feel we want in our final shots. For instance, we can bring our light source closer to the scrim, thus not fully illuminating the entire surface. This technically makes the source of light slightly smaller and, therefore harder. It also gives a bit of a feathered look to the light, almost like a small light with a larger fill. This can be great when we want more contrast.
Another option is to change the direction of the source light. For instance, have it above the scrim and shoot down toward it. This will create a feathered light source as the scrim is not illuminated evenly. Finally, we can let some of the light from our source bleed past it. We can bounce this harder light back in for a passive fill that is coming from another direction than the main (scrim) light.
When to Use a Scrim
While a scrim is an amazing tool, like any other modifier, it tends to shine in certain situations. Let’s take a look at how and why some photographers may use one in their photography.
Still life photographers
Tabletop and still-life photographers, especially those who want to create very natural feeling images, can benefit from using one. With a frame that is larger than your set, you can create a wash of light from above that will help you balance out any precise lighting you use in your shots.
Why does this look more natural? Without getting too technical, it concerns how the sun lights a room. It is brightest near the windows, but there is still some light in the rest of the space. Contrast this to placing a softbox two feet from your subject; this would result in near-absolute darkness just a few feet away.
Fashion Photographers
When creating images for fashion catalogs or advertising clients, it is often important to have beautiful, even light, over the entire figure. A large light source like a scrim is a simple and powerful way to achieve this look. Placing a six or eight-foot square scrim just off camera will create a head-to-toe even light that will allow the model space to move and pose for the best possible effect.
My first experience using one was in the realm of fashion, and we used these versatile tools under the harsh sun to achieve soft, even light. This allowed the model to be posed in exciting and exotic locations without the need for power.
Portrait Photographers
My primary use of a scrim these days is in the realm of portrait photography. I use one as a key light for a clean, gentle wash of light. Or as a large fill light to help control the shadows on a more dramatic shot. The adaptability of a scrim shows through when working on a portrait set. Much like with fashion, they are perfect companions when making location portraits, allowing for soft light any time of day.
Conclusion
Photographers have many light shapers to choose from when planning their shots. A scrim is an often-overlooked workhorse that deserves to be considered by fashion, portrait, and still-life photographers alike. When you need to create a natural feeling of light in the studio or wrangle some harsh sunlight, a scrim is the perfect tool. Whether you use one for fill light or to shape your key light, few sets can’t benefit from the use of these light shapers.
