Photographing Incredible India

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Published on August 8, 2016
Allen Rokach w/Anne Millman
Adorama ALC

When people hear that I’ve been to India at least ten times, they often react with disbelief and say something like, “Isn’t it awfully poor and crowded?” Undoubtedly, there are areas of poverty and the big cities can be crowded — but those things can be found all over the world. What I’ve found in India is a unique mix of architectural marvels, fascinating people and displays of bright eye-popping colors that are made to be photographed.

If you’re curious and daring enough to venture a journey to India, here are some pointers to make it a photographic success:

Temples and monuments: Probably the most famous edifice in India is the Taj Mahal, with its harmonious lines and delicate colors. But it is hardly typical of India’s wealth of Hindu temples — including the famous erotic temples in Kajarahu — the fabulous mogul palaces in Rajasthan, and the entire neighborhoods of blue houses in Jodhpur and pink homes in Jaipur.

My favorites are the big, gaudy Hindu temples of Southern India. Their exteriors are completely covered with brightly painted images of the gods, their various avatars, and stories from the Ramayana, the text that tells of the many escapades of the Hindu deities. Some of these temples are so huge that you can’t possible capture them completely except with an extreme wide-angle lens, but check that you don’t get too much distortion. The gaudy exteriors photograph best in low-angled sidelight, toward sunset or early in the morning. Use your telephoto lens to come in on sections of the exterior to show what these decorative features look like. You’re bound to discover some unbelievable combinations of figures. To get saturated colors, try to shoot in the shade or, if you have no choice but bright sunshine, underexpose by up to two f/stops.

The interiors of these temples are often like small cities. People come all day long to pray, bring donations of flowers, food or incense, and to relax and meditate. (See below for pointers on photographing people.) Inside the temple walls, you’re likely to find vendors selling flowers, food and other items. To enter, you’ll probably have to remove your shoes — you may have to pay or tip a minder of the shoes — and you may not be allowed to use your camera so bring a smart phone to take pictures inside.

Markets: Another fascinating place to photograph is in India’s endless array of markets. Wherever you go, you’ll find people selling produce, fish, household items, hardware, flowers, including wreaths and other decorative arrangements, and anything else people might need. Many of these are open air markets so you can walk along until something catches your eye.

The wares themselves are often colorful and fascinating. There may be neat pyramids of fruit, colorful chalks used for ceremonies, bins full of spices, etc. If it’s a neighborhood market, you may want to show a vendor’s wares against the background of the street scene. I usually try to show the surroundings to place them in a particular setting. Still, you should think about whether you want the background sharp or something of a blur. In general, go for sharpness by using a wide-angle lens and a relatively small aperture. But if the background doesn’t enhance the image or actually distracts from it, either eliminate it or blur it out by getting close to your foreground subject or by using a normal or telephoto lens.

In addition, I try to show the people in the markets as well as the items for sale. This may take a bit of concentration until you get a sense of the transactions that are likely to occur. The vendors alone are often interesting to portray as they arrange, weigh or hawk their wares. Also, watch for shoppers and their expressions as they inspect the items or bargain with the vendor. Finally, be ready for the exchange of a package and money — that’s the decisive moment in markets. (See below for more tips on photographing people.) All of these are moments that are rarely seen anymore in the industrialized world.

People in action: There are so many people in India that you won’t run out of potential subjects to photograph. Whether you’re shooting at a temple, a market, along a street, in a craftsman’s workshop or some other location, you’re more likely to get interesting images if you stay in one place for a while and observe the scene. You’ll soon notice the actions that people tend to repeat. That’s when you can begin to capture those typical gestures.

For example, in the temples you may notice people circling around a pillar or tossing flowers at an altar, or bowing and bending in some way. Once you’ve become familiar with their movements, you can home in on likely subjects as they approach the spot, with your composition and settings prepared in advance. Position yourself so you can see the person’s face — full face or partial — and be ready to snap the shot a fraction of a second before the peak moment.

Most of the time, these kinds of shots are spontaneous and will not be posed. But that doesn’t mean that you can’t engage your subjects and ask them to repeat an action or even to pose.

Portraits: For consistently distinctive images of the people you encounter, you will have to ask them to pose for a portrait. That involves a bit of daring for some people, but think of it as something you build up to. Show an interest in what the person is doing. Ask some questions or use sign language to indicate what you are curious about. After a little give and take, ask if you can take the person’s picture or just point to your camera and to them. Luckily, most people in India are very willing to cooperate, especially if you have shown an interest in what they are doing or who they are.

Once they have agreed, place them where the light and the background work for your purposes without moving them too far. You may want to position your subjects with some objects they are associated with or with colleagues or members of their family. Such group shots are often fun for everyone involved. Nowadays, you can show them the photos you took and even share them via Facebook or Instagram. That always builds good will.

As for composition, you can opt to come in tightly on your subject’s face, do a partial or whole body portrait, or portray your subject within a larger environment. Choose the one that’s most interesting to you. For portraits, especially when I’m traveling, I like the flexibility of my 28-70mm zoom lens and generally set it at about 35mm and focused on my subject’s face.

If you’re photographing outdoors, which can be very bright, look for a spot in the shade to take your portrait. Indoors, as in a market or temple, looks for uniform soft light. Be aware of any color distortions caused by reflected light from the walls or ceiling or from electric lights near your subject. Sometimes the color cast can enhance your image; if not, you can correct this with the editing app is your computer. Avoid splotchy light or very bright spots indoors and out.

Unexpected moments: Whenever I travel, I try to be extra aware of things that just happen to cross my path. I’ve come across weddings, funerals, parades, festivals and all kinds of unplanned events right on the street. Don’t be shy about asking questions and following whatever procession you may see. Such moments can open the door to some of the most fascinating images you’ll shoot. And in India there’s always something going on. You just have to keep your eyes wide open and take the time to capture the amazing sights you’ll see.

Allen Rokach spent many years as a magazine and commercial photographer and now runs photo workshops around the world, including to Cuba, the American West, and India. Go to www.allenrokach.com for details. Anne Millman has written countless articles on travel, culture, science and photography, including 8 books on photography with Allen Rokach.